On Saturday, Stephanie, Steve and I took a day trip to the city of Assisi, the home of Saint Francis. After three weeks of being in love with Rome, we were ready for a brief break, so we hopped a morning train and after three hours of riding through the Umbrian hills, arrived in Assisi.
It was spectacular. I felt like Elizabeth Bennet when she first glimpsed the grounds of Pemberly. Assisi is a stone town perched on a tall hill, with a castle capping the village and the monastery and basilica of St. Francis dominating view. From the train station, you walk straight up the hillside, and after a climb, are level with the cobbled streets that take you to the basilica, which was our first destination.
We entered into the lower basilica after catching our breath, which had been stolen by the countryside that stretched out before us. Once inside the cavern-like hall, we gaped at the frescoes by Giotto – his many angels spreading their rainbow wings over countless Biblical and legendary moments painted on the walls. Past the altar, you then walked from that dark space into an open courtyard where you could see the friars’ quarters below. It was a very simple space, more reflective of the order’s mission that the basilica itself.
After further exploring the upper basilica, we were getting hungry (Holly, I’m about to describe food!). So we wandered about until we found a bustling trattoria further up the hill. Perhaps it was all the walking before, but lunch was superb. I ordered a hearty Umbrian soup that came to the table steaming. There were white beans, bulgar wheat, vegetables, and a hint of fatback in the dish, and like an sunken iceberg, a toasted crostino emerging from the depths of the bowl. That shared the table with a bread salad of lettuce, onion, vinegar, tomatoes and peppers – a spicy starter whose acidic kick brought out the best of the rich soup.
But we also had to do our homework: one of the niftiest parts of the class has been a wine tasting led by one of our professor’s friends. At this tasting, in which he gave us an introduction to the how, what, why, when and where of wine, he also assigned us un piccolo compito. At our next session (slated for this Wednesday), we were to bring back a label of a wine we enjoyed. So being in Assisi, we went local and tried the DOC red that the restaurant had on the list. For our student budgets, it was a bit of a splurge, but it gave the meal a whole new dynamic. The color alone – a dark plum purple that appeared almost black – was of an intensity unmatched by anything we had swirled in the last three weeks. It tasted deep and rich, and having it on the table certainly made the meal more memorable. Two hours later, we emerged back onto the stony streets that, at that time, were damp from a series of showers.
Next stop, the castle!
Having just had a loaded lunch, we walked slowly, but within a half hour had reached the peak of the town where the medieval castle stands. It was my first real castle. And it was EPIC!
First of all, there were tiny stone passageways one man wide, arrow slits for archers to stalk invaders, twisted stone stairwells, and towers with turrets! Just like in storybooks. Secondly, they actually let us walk the passageways, climb the stairs and ascend the towers. We would have shot arrows too, but unfortunately we had left our quivers and bows at home.
From the top of the tower, there was a stunning view – 360 degrees of magical forest, patchwork farms and the stone towers of the churches in town. The weather was blustery and damp, and as we stood on the turret, clouds rolled through the valley and we could see the rain charge across the plains. We got wet once or twice, but never enough to chase us away.
That afternoon was the first time I could really believe in fairy tales. Just like when you look out across the Texas flats and realize Pecos Bill isn’t too much of a stretch, or climb the forests of Oregon and see Paul Bunyon, the idea of faeries, giants and ogres did not seem too far-fetched. The black-green forests stretching over the hills, the dramatic cliffs and huddled farms beneath the town created a world of princes and princesses (which I suppose at one time it was), and standing there, I would not have been shocked if a knight and his magician friend appeared at the gate.
Checking our watches, we realized we had to rush back down if we were to make it to the two other churches that were on our list, so after a few more photos we booked it down to the main part of town, visited S. Chiara and then took a taxi downhill to the S. Maria degli Angeli.
At this latter church, they have built a beautiful cathedral around the chapel of St. Francis – the church that he found in the wilderness and was called upon by God to rebuild and grow. It was a modest shrine with frescoes, literally just sitting in the middle of this (relatively) modern church. A great way to end the day.
So we made our way back to the train station, where after a short wait we were back on our way to Rome. We were exhausted and excited, but walking back to the apartment past the Circus Maximus and Roman Forum, we thought again how lucky we are to be able to spend a whole month in this rich place.
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